Hymn to the Baobab

The Baobab

The Baobab

Aah, the mighty baobab tree… One of the treats of any stay in The Gambia is the unforgettable sight of a baobab tree, crazed and incongrous against the bright blue of the sky or the low hum of a scorched-sky sunset. On first sighting – with its squat body, leathery pachyderm bark, and Gorgon crown of roots – it was so utterly different to any other tree I’d ever seen, it held my gaze, drew me over to it. I stood beneath the gravid green of its pendulous fruit and thought, ‘now I understand why this tree is held in such esteem…’

A huge baobab dwarfs a brave climber...

A huge baobab dwarfs a brave climber...

There are actually eight species of Baobab, only one of which occurs naturally in The Gambia – the huge African Baobab. Of the 7 other species, 6 occur only on the island of Madagascar and another, the Boab, occurs only in northwestern Australia. The tree can grow to extraordinary dimensions (there is one African Baobab in South Africa that is an astonishing 47 metres round the fattest part of its trunk) and can live for millenia, though measuring an individual tree’s age is made difficult by the fact that the wood doesn’t produce annual growth rings. Radiocarbon dating has been used however, and that same South African Baobab is thought to be over 6,000 years old…

One of the Baobab’s remarkable properties – and the reason for its bestriding of the desert lands – is that it is able to store water in its trunk. Up to 120,000 litres at a time. During the rainy season it will gorge itself and the trunk will fatten noticeably; come the dry season when all around is parched and rasping, the Baobab drinks its fill and loses weight. But it’s not just water the Baobab can provide – it gives of itself with altruistic glee:

  • The fruit has a higher vitamin C content than an orange and a higher calcium content than cow’s milk. It can also be ground down to make coffee and the seeds used as thickener for soups and for seasoning. In East Africa, the the dry fruit pulp is covered in sugary coating and sold in packages as a sweet and sour candy called “boonya” or “bungha”.
  • The leaves can be used for salads or boiled and eaten.
  • The bark can be pounded to make rope, mats, baskets, paper and cloth
  • Glue can be made from the pollen
Baobabs at dusk

Baobabs at dusk. Image by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97968921@N00/2846353305/}Ze Eduardo {/link}

Considering all this it’s little wonder that the Baobab has such a presence – both in the sense of the way it supports an entire ecosystem, its entwinement with everyday life, and its ubiquity in local mythology. It’s probably worth knowing that if if you pick a flower from a Baobab tree you will be eaten by a lion, but to counter that if you drink water in which a Baobab’s seeds have been soaked you will be safe from crocodile attack. All this and probably the coolest thing of all is that the Baobab’s flowers open at night and are pollinated by bats. What’s not to love?

If that hasn’t convinced you to go The Gambia right now, seek out a Baobab, slip on some sandals and a smock and sink to your knees in epiphanic ecstasy I don’t know what will. Yea mighty Baobab, we are your humble servants.

Enjoy the rest of the photos below.

The Tree of Life

The Tree of Life

A Baobab grove

A Baobab grove

Baobabs in the wet season

Baobabs in the wet season

A Baobab by night

A Baobab by night. Image by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomward/78482550/}Tom Ward{/link}

Journeyman – Faces of The Gambia

Faces of The Gambia

Faces of The Gambia

We’ve had our attention drawn to this wonderful video available now over at the Journeyman site. Journeyman are a Canadian company and their task was to create a ‘non-stereotypical, empowering story about Africa that will talk to Canadians’ – essentially a non-cliched look at The Gambia in all its glorious diversity.

Looking at the footage and reading the account of the making of the film it seems as though the film makers had a very enriching trip and by moving beyond the traditional tourist areas they were able to capture the country as it is, as opposed to how it might be presented by a more commercial-minded venture. As Oren puts it on the Journeyman blog: ‘It’s been a real eye opener to be exposed to this cross-section of Gambian culture. To listen to these peoples’ stories has truly been an honour.’ It’s a great film and well worth your time.

The Faces of The Gambia

A week of Song in The Gambia

I have recently returned from another wonderful week in The Gambia with my fellow Nyodema trustee, Shelagh Hamilton. This time our friend, Andrea Encinas, an experienced vocal coach, joined us. Andrea, originally from Trinidad, came to England as a nurse. She is now the director of British Gospel Arts, books choirs for The South Bank Centre, sings with the London Community Gospel Choir (you may have seen her singing at the FA Cup Final at Wembley in May!) and is studying for an MBA in Arts Management.

Well I’m pleased to say Andrea has fallen in love with The Gambia and I’m sure this will be the first of many visits.

Singing Lessons at Jeddah School

Singing Lessons at Jeddah School

We had a very hectic week. Singing (and dancing) at Jeddah Progress Nursery School, Brikama was definitely one of the highlights. Andrea taught everyone some traditional Afro-Caribbean songs and the school choir from Farrato sang a mixture of English and African songs for us. Andrea’s enthusiastic approach was contagious as children, teachers and parents joined in this cultural exchange.

The recently formed drama group performed a couple of delightful short plays including one about learning English the ‘Jolly Phonics’ way and another about malaria prevention. I can’t explain how it felt to see two little girls playing, Kathryn and Shelagh, handing out mosquito nets. These two days were an excellent way to strengthen the bond between Nyodema and the local community.

Another Nyodema sponsored, teacher training course in ‘phonics’, took place over the next two days. This is a method of teaching English widely used throughout the UK and is proving to be a great success in The Gambia.

During the week we also managed to fit in a radio interview on Unique FM, a singing workshop at a Gospel church in Bakau and a visit to Serrakunda market. Andrea also took part in a couple of informal yet inspirational performances with local musicians.

The Malaria Play

The Malaria Play

As Andrea had never been to the Gambia before we took a day out to explore the area, looking at different housing conditions etc. Andrea was shocked at the extent of the poverty in The Gambia (and since being back has already started raising money for Nyodema).

I mustn’t forget to mention the children’s clothes and toys that we distributed throughout the week, in particular, 14 cuddly toys donated by Elsie, the three year old daughter of another Gambia Experience staff member. After looking at some photographs of Gambian children, Elsie decided that she did not need all her toys. On Boxing Day last year she sorted out all the ones she didn’t play with anymore and asked her Mum to give them to children in Africa. This was entirely her idea. Well done, Elsie!

Elsie was delighted to see the photos of her toys in Africa.

Our last night was spent dancing until the early hours to an excellent reggae/salsa band in a bar on the Senegambia strip. The following day Andrea and I said our goodbyes to the wonderful staff at our hotel (Sunset Beach in Kotu) who had made us feel so welcome and headed off to the airport.

Shelagh stayed on to organise the distribution of more mosquito nets and to meet the medical students from Florida who ran the first-aid teacher training course for us at Jeddah Progress Nursery School last year. This visit they ran a dental hygiene course for the teachers and supplied toothbrushes etc for the children.

Elsie's Teddy

Elsie's Teddy

Each time I visit The Gambia I learn so much, make numerous new friends and return home with many happy memories. A huge thank you to everyone who contributed to this wonderful week. I’m very lucky to be part of ‘Nyodema’.

Sandstorm off the coast of Senegal

An African Sandstorm

An African Sandstorm

A fantastic picture courtesy of NASA (via the BBC) – a sandstorm moves from Africa’s Atlantic coast towards the cowering Cape Verde archipelago. Gambia is below the southern part of this picture, the country you can see is Senegal. Sandstorms are generally not a problem in The Gambia but they can sweep across the country from time to time, encrusting everything with a thin rime and lending the sun a strange alien glow…

A Gambia School Visit

The following is a guest post from Jo Wedeman who has worked for The Gambia Experience for over 10 years. This is an account of an emotional visit she undertook to a school on a recent trip to the country.

I can’t actually remember the number of times I’ve visited The Gambia, although I think it’s around fifteen over a period of ten years. I had fallen in love with the place the first time I’d travelled back in 1999. It was the first time I’d been to a developing country and seen such poverty and at first it was a shock, the hassle from the locals was also a shock but I soon got used to how to deal with it and from that point on I could see just how unbelievably friendly and funny the majority of the people were. I even started to enjoy the banter, the bartering and the inventive sales pitches the market stallholders come up with.

Gambian School Children

Gambian School Children

During my many visits I thought I’d seen the majority of sights and experienced all the emotions associated with visiting a developing country – but oh, how I was wrong. On my last visit, last November, I saw the country and more specifically the people in a totally new way. Admittedly I hadn’t travelled to The Gambia in over four years and in that time I’d had two children. I’d experienced new emotions that only a new parent can feel and these travelled with me on my trip to Africa – my first away from my children for so long. I was escorting a press trip on a brief four-day tour of the coastal region and one morning I accompanied a BBC journalist Bridget Blair to a school where she was covering a story for BBC Radio Leicester. The story was about a British woman, Sharon Jervis, who was supporting a school in The Gambia – nothing extraordinary there I thought beforehand, there are hundreds of people supporting schools, hospitals and community projects across the country.

The school’s headmaster collected us from our hotel after breakfast, in a car he’d borrowed, and drove us the half-hour journey to Joyce International School, stopping briefly at a roadside stall to buy some books, posters and pencils to give to the children. As we turned off the tarmac road and started to navigate the potholed sandy tracks between the houses, children playing and goats scavenging I knew we were approaching the village and then I became aware of a distant sound. At first I didn’t think much of it. In The Gambia people live outside: women work, men talk, children play in the streets, there’s always noise. But as we continued the sound got louder until it became apparent that the noise was because of us. For us. We stopped briefly for the journalist to start recording and do a short introduction to what was happening and then we continued. The whole village had come to welcome us. Teachers, parents, children had all come out to the edge of the village to welcome us, chanting “welcome, welcome” over and over again, waving branches and banging drums. The noise was overwhelming and the sight of the children surrounding the car, with their huge smiles and gorgeous eyes, was a sight I will never, ever forget. As we followed the procession to the school I had to keep my sobbing to a minimum for fear of spoiling the radio piece.

The welcoming committee!

The welcoming committee!

On arrival at the school the singing continued and every classroom we went to we were given the biggest welcome from everyone we met. OK, so we were there to publicise the school and they had received a great deal of financial support from the British charity so we expected to be well-received, but I was totally unprepared for the genuine love they had for Sharon and the emotions I would experience. These children were so appreciative of the very basic school buildings and equipment, proud of their new toilets, the kitchen with its bare floors and simple cooking facilities, which meant they all got at least one hot meal a day.

The school kitchen

The school kitchen

One girl stood out because she was the only one not smiling, the only one not rushing to hold our hands, the only one who didn’t seem excited by the visit, who didn’t sing and didn’t say how grateful she was to Sharon. She was clinging to her teacher and when I asked why I was told it was the first time she’d ever seen a white person and was she was scared. I smiled, tried to be as friendly as possible but moved away – how do you expect a small child to understand what is going on?

Outside the classrooms I chatted to some men and women who helped in the kitchen and some who lived in the village and had come along to meet the visitors from England. They were the happiest, smiliest people I have ever met. They urged me to take their photographs over and over again, delighting in the fact that they could see their own images on the back of the digital camera. They posed by themselves, with different friends and did dances for me. The most forthcoming of them even asked to carry my bag, parading around the courtyard like a catwalk model. Some people might have felt intimidated about handing over their bag to a complete stranger in a remote village in West Africa, but I had no concerns that this incredibly warm and friendly lady would simply hand it straight back.

Eyes and smiles

Eyes and smiles

As I was waiting for Bridget to finish her interviews I wandered around the school yard and started to get the feeling of déjà vu , but I had visited a number of Gambian schools in the past and the simple buildings can all look fairly similar. But then it occurred to me, I had been here before about six years ago. The buildings had been in a much worse state then, there had been no kitchen and no toilets, there hadn’t been the same enthusiastic welcome but I had been here before. And then the appreciation of how much had changed for these children and for the villagers really hit me. I realised how much one person can do to help and suddenly I felt very very humble.

If you want to read and hear more about Bridget’s project there is some information on the BBC Leicester site that is well worth a look.